Gas Grill Won't Light? What Grill Techs Check First

When a gas grill won't light, the cause is usually an empty propane tank, a regulator that tripped its safety and is barely letting gas through, or an igniter that isn't sparking. Try lighting one burner with a match. If it lights, fix the igniter. If it won't, the problem is gas supply.

Key points

The match test splits the problem in half: burner lights by match means ignition, no flame by match means gas.
Weigh the tank or use the warm water trick before you blame the grill.
Propane regulators have a safety that cuts flow to a trickle. A simple reset fixes it.
One dead burner with the rest fine usually means a spider web in that burner tube or a clogged orifice.
If you smell gas strongly, shut off the gas, don't light anything, and call your gas utility or 911 from a safe place.

First, a safety check

If you smell gas strongly around the grill, stop. Turn off the burners and the tank valve or the gas shutoff, don't light anything or flip any switches nearby, move away, and call your gas utility or 911 from a safe place. Don't try to light a grill that smells like a leak. Our guide to a grill that smells like gas covers the leak checks.

If there's no strong smell, keep going.

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Send us your brand, model and the part you need. We source OEM parts, including ones that aren't listed in our online store.

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Most companies in our network are dealers or have dealer accounts, so they can usually bring the right part and install it in one visit.

The match test: gas or ignition?

Lift the lid, turn off every knob and wait a few minutes. Light a long match or lighter, hold it at one burner through the lighting hole or with the match holder your manual describes, then turn that one burner on.

It lights and burns normally. Gas is fine. The igniter is the problem. See our guide to a grill igniter that won't spark.
It won't light, or lights weak and tiny. Gas isn't getting there. Work through the list below.

If it doesn't catch within about 5 seconds, turn it off and wait 5 minutes before trying again.

Likely causes, in the order we see them

Empty or nearly empty propane tank.
Propane regulator safety tripped, so only a trickle of gas flows.
Tank coupling not fully tightened, or the tank valve or natural gas shutoff is closed.
Igniter failure (if the burner lights by match).
Spider webs or insect nests in the burner tube, usually on one burner.
Clogged orifice or burner ports.
Air in the line after a new install, a long off-season or a gas line repair.
A failed gas valve or regulator.

Step-by-step checks you can safely do

Check the propane level. A gauge on the regulator is a rough guide at best. Better: weigh the tank. The empty weight is stamped on the collar as "TW", about 17 pounds for a standard 20-pound tank. A full one weighs about 37 pounds. Or pour a cup of warm tap water down the side of the tank, wait a few seconds and run your hand down it. The tank feels cool below the liquid line.
Reconnect the tank fully. Standard propane tanks won't flow unless the big coupling nut is hand-tightened all the way. A half-threaded nut is one of the most common no-flame calls we get. Turn it until it stops, hand tight only, no tools.
Reset the regulator. If the grill lights but only with a tiny flame, the regulator's excess flow safety has probably tripped. Turn off all the burners, close the tank valve, disconnect the regulator from the tank and wait a few minutes. Reconnect, open the tank valve slowly all the way, wait about 30 seconds, then light one burner. More on this in why a grill won't get hot.
Open the natural gas shutoff. On natural gas grills, find the shutoff valve under the grill or in the island. The handle is open when it runs parallel to the pipe. Someone may have closed it during a remodel or a cleaning.
Check which burners fail. All burners dead points to the gas supply. One burner dead with the rest fine points to that burner's tube, orifice or valve.
Look for spiders. With the gas off and the grill cool, pull the grates and heat plates, lift out the dead burner (usually a cotter pin, clip or screw at the back) and shine a light into the tube's open end. Webs, nests or mud dauber tubes block gas. Clear them with a flexible venturi brush or a bottle brush, then reinstall the burner so its inlet slides back over the valve orifice.
Check the burner ports. Grease and rust close off ports along the burner. Clear them with a straightened paper clip or a small drill bit turned by hand. Don't enlarge them.
Leak check after any reconnecting. Brush a 50/50 mix of dish soap and water on the tank connection, hose and regulator with the tank valve open and burners off. Growing bubbles mean a leak. Shut the tank off and fix it before lighting.

Natural gas grills that won't light after install

A new natural gas line often has air in it. It can take a long time to bleed through a grill's small orifices, and the burners won't stay lit until it does. Purging a gas line is work for the installer or a licensed plumber, not a homeowner. If a grill was just converted from propane, the wrong orifices can also stop it from lighting. See our guide to converting a grill from propane to natural gas.

What a pro does and when to call

Call a tech if a reset doesn't bring the flame back, if you smell gas, if a burner lights and then goes out on its own, or if you suspect the valve. We don't recommend homeowners take apart gas valves or work on gas lines. A tech pressure-tests the system, checks the regulator output, cleans or replaces orifices, swaps failed valves and checks for leaks before handing the grill back.

Most service companies in our network are dealers or have dealer accounts, so they can usually get the right valve, regulator or burner and install it the same visit. Search for a grill tech by ZIP or go straight to gas grill repair. If the grill is caked in grease, a professional grill cleaning often clears the burner and port problems at the same time.

Parts that usually fix it

Regulator and hose. For propane grills that won't reset or keep tripping. See our regulator and hose cost guide.
Burners. When ports are rusted shut or the tube is rotted through. Prices are in our grill burner cost guide.
Gas valve. Buy OEM only, and have a pro install it. Ranges in our grill valve cost guide.
Igniter parts. If the match test pointed to ignition.

Get the model and serial number from the rating plate before you order. For valves, regulators and other safety parts, buy OEM. Pro Grill carries parts for brands like Blaze and Summerset, and if the part isn't in the store, send Pro Grill a parts request.

Frequently asked questions

Why won't my gas grill light after changing the tank?

Usually the coupling nut isn't tightened all the way, the tank valve was opened too fast and tripped the regulator safety, or a burner was left on during the swap. Turn everything off, reconnect hand tight, and open the tank valve slowly.

Why does only one burner on my grill light?

When one burner fails and the others work, look for a spider web or nest in that burner's tube, a clogged orifice, or a burner that slid off its valve orifice. If those are clear, the valve may be bad.

How do I know if my propane tank is empty?

Weigh it. A standard 20-pound tank weighs about 17 pounds empty (stamped as TW on the collar) and about 37 pounds full. Pouring warm water down the side and feeling for the cool line also works.

Why does my grill light then go out?

Common causes are a nearly empty tank, a tripped regulator, air in a natural gas line, or a partly blocked burner. On grills with flame sensing or thermocouple safety valves, a failed sensor can shut the gas off. That one is a job for a tech.

Can I clean grill burner orifices myself?

You can blow out or gently clear debris with the gas off. Never drill or enlarge an orifice, because the size is set for your gas type and BTU rating. If an orifice is damaged, replace it.