Two-Zone Bison Burgers with Ancho Rub and Garlic-Chive Sauce

Bison makes a great burger, but it has far less fat than beef. Cook it like a chuck patty and you end up with a dry puck. These patties get a small amount of cold butter, a quick sear over high heat, and a finish on the cool side of the grill. They come out browned outside and juicy inside.

Set up the grill for two zones

On a gas grill, light half the burners on high and leave the other half off. Close the lid and let it heat for 10 minutes. The hot side should read around 450°F to 500°F. Scrape the grates with a brush, then wipe them with an oiled paper towel held in tongs.

If the grates are caked with old grease, that grease will flare up under lean meat and char the outside before the middle is ready. A clean grill and clean burner tubes make this recipe much easier. If a burner is burning uneven or a flame tamer is rusted through, check the parts diagrams for your brand and order replacements from the Pro Grill parts store.

Keep the meat cold and the mixing light

Freeze the butter for 15 minutes, then grate it on a box grater straight into the bison. Fold it in with your hands just until it is spread through the meat. Overmixing makes dense, rubbery burgers. Shape the patties, press a shallow dimple in each center with your thumb, and put them back in the fridge until the grill is ready.

Salt goes on the outside of the patty with the rub, right before it hits the grates. Salt worked into ground meat early gives it a springy, sausage-like bite.

How to tell they are done

Ground bison needs to reach 160°F in the center, the same as ground beef. Do not pull it at 120°F or 130°F the way you might a steak. Slide an instant-read thermometer in through the side of the patty so the tip sits in the middle.

Color is not a reliable guide. Bison looks darker and browner than beef at every stage. Go by the thermometer and let the patties rest 3 minutes. The temperature will climb a few degrees as they sit.

What goes wrong

• Dry, gray patties: they stayed too long on the hot side. Move them to the cool side as soon as both faces are seared.
• Patties that fall apart: the meat got warm or was overworked. Chill them for at least 15 minutes before grilling and flip only once.
• Flare-ups: there is very little fat here, so flare-ups usually come from grease already in the firebox. Clean out the drip tray before you cook.
• Bitter crust: ancho and paprika scorch if the grates are much hotter than 500°F. Turn the burners down a notch if the rub starts to blacken.

If you ever smell gas while lighting the grill, shut off the valve at the tank, step away, and call a pro. You can find an insured grill pro near you.

Serving

Toast the buns on the cool side while the patties finish. Stack them with the cheddar, grilled red onion, tomato, and butter lettuce, then add a big spoonful of the chive sauce. A cold lager or a crisp slaw goes well on the side.