Cost to Replace a Built-In BBQ Grill [2026 Prices]

Short answer: the total for replacing a built-in grill is the new grill, plus removing the old one, plus installing the new one, plus any cutout, gas or electrical work the island needs. The grill is the biggest line and swings the most. Our service lines are removal and haul-away at $300, install of a new built-in grill at $450 to $650, and cutout modification starting at $150. Whether the new grill slides into the existing opening or the island has to change decides the rest. We don't quote from a spec sheet alone, because the island decides half the job. Call 800-860-6758 or text 888-418-4226 with your brand, model and a few photos and we'll price it.

What goes into the total

Line item	Price	What moves the price
New grill	Entry $2,500 to $10,000; mid $3,000 to $6,000; high-end $12,000 to $20,000	Brand, width, burner count, stainless grade, extras like a sear burner, rotisserie and lights
Removal and haul-away of the old grill	$300	Weight, how it is tied into the island, access to the yard
Install of the new grill	$450 to $650	Grill size and weight, gas type, how many connections
Cutout modification	Starting at $150	How far the new grill's dimensions are from the old opening, and the island material
Gas line work	Quoted per job	Distance to the source, pipe size, shutoff valve, natural gas vs. propane
Electrical work	Quoted per job	Whether there is a GFCI outlet near the island for lights, rotisserie and igniters

Get each of these quoted separately, or at least itemized. A single lump number hides the part you might be able to skip.

For a straight swap where the new grill fits the old opening and the gas and power already work, removal plus install comes to $750 to $950 before the grill itself. Cutout, gas and electrical work go on top of that only if the island needs them.

The grill itself: entry, mid and high-end

Price tracks build quality more than anything else. Here is what you are paying for at each level.

Entry level: $2,500 to $10,000

Entry-level grills have fewer burners, lighter-gauge stainless, and often a 430-grade stainless body that can show rust sooner near the coast. Expect basic ignition, a shorter warranty and few extras. These grills cook fine, but the burners, grates and heat tents tend to be the parts that wear out first.

Mid-range: $3,000 to $6,000

This is where most homeowners land. You typically get heavier-gauge stainless, better burners, a sear burner or infrared zone, interior lights, and a rotisserie option. Brands we sell and service that commonly sit in this range include Blaze, Summerset, Lion, Bull and Cal Flame, though models vary within each line.

High-end: $12,000 to $20,000

High-end grills use thick 304 stainless throughout, heavy cast or rod grates, strong warranties, and tight fit and finish. Brands such as Fire Magic, Twin Eagles, Alfresco, Delta Heat and AOG often live here. You also pay for parts availability. A well-supported brand is easier to keep running for 15 years or more.

The ranges overlap because width, burner count and extras move the price as much as the level does. A large entry-level grill can cost more than a small mid-range one. You can browse parts for most of these brands in our parts diagrams, which also show how a grill is built.

Removing the old grill: $300

Removal and haul-away is its own line, at $300. A built-in grill is heavy, and a full-size one can run well over 100 pounds. It has to be disconnected from gas and power first, then lifted out of the island without chipping the countertop or the stone around the opening.

Ask whether haul-away is included in any quote you get. If you want to handle disposal yourself, see how to dispose of an outdoor BBQ. Most scrap yards won't take a grill with the burners and gas hardware still attached.

Will the new grill fit the existing cutout?

This question decides whether your project is a simple swap or a construction job. Built-in grills slide into the island opening and rest on a lip around the edge. Every brand and model has its own cutout width, depth and height, and they rarely match another brand's.

Before you buy, check these:

1. Width, depth and height of the opening. Measure the actual hole, not the old grill's outside dimensions.
2. The new grill's published cutout dimensions. They are on the manufacturer's spec sheet and are different from the overall size.
3. Clearance behind and beside the grill. The firebox needs space to the island walls.
4. Lip or flange overlap. The new grill's face has to cover the old opening edge, or you will see a gap.
5. Gas and power locations. The line has to reach the new regulator and valve connection.

Do this check before you order. Most grills can't be returned once they are uncrated, and a special-order high-end grill may not be returnable at all.

Cutout modification: starting at $150

If the new grill is wider, deeper or taller than the old opening, the island has to be cut. If it is smaller, the opening may need to be closed in. Cutout work starts at $150 and goes up with how much has to change.

What raises the cost:

• Countertop material. Granite, quartz and tile need careful cutting, and a cracked slab can mean a new top.
• Finish around the opening. Stucco, stone veneer or tile will need patching.
• Framing. A wood-framed island needs an insulated jacket around the grill, and the frame may have to be rebuilt to take one.
• Going wider. Extra inches might hit a drawer, a side burner, or a structural post.

If you want to avoid this line entirely, shop for a grill whose cutout matches the old one. A model that fits within a fraction of an inch can save more than the price difference between two similar grills.

Gas line and electrical work

Many swaps need neither. If the old grill is natural gas and the new one is natural gas, the existing line and shutoff usually reconnect with a new flex hose. The problems start when something changes:

• Switching fuel type. Natural gas and propane grills use different orifices and regulators. Some grills ship for one fuel and need a conversion kit for the other. Natural gas also needs a larger line.
• A bigger grill. More burners pull more gas. An older, undersized line can starve the new grill and cause weak flames or a grill that won't get hot enough.
• No shutoff valve. A shutoff within reach of the grill is a basic safety item. If yours is missing or seized, replace it.
• Moving the stub-out. If the line has to be rerouted to hit the new connection point, expect plumbing time and possibly a permit.

Gas work should be done by an insured pro, and a pressure test should be done after any change. If you smell gas at any point, turn the gas off at the valve or tank, stay away from sparks and flame, and call a pro.

On the electrical side, most built-in grills use a plug for ignition, lights and rotisserie. You need a GFCI-protected outdoor outlet within reach of the cord. If the old grill ran on batteries and the new one needs power, an electrician may need to add an outlet.

Install of the new grill: $450 to $650

Installation is a separate line from the grill and the removal. It covers setting the grill in the opening, connecting the gas line, testing for leaks, lighting every burner and checking the flame. Don't skip the leak test.

We also check that the regulator is matched to the fuel and that the vents in an enclosed island are clear. Propane islands need vents so a leak can't pool in the cabinet.

If the grill needs parts or accessories at install, such as grates, heat tents or a cover, you can order them from our parts store.

When repairing the old grill makes more sense

Replacement is the right call less often than people think. A built-in grill is mostly a frame, a firebox and a hood. The parts that fail are usually the cheap ones: burners, igniters, valves, thermostats, grates and heat tents.

Repair usually wins when:

• The firebox and hood are sound, with no rust-through or warping.
• The problem is the burners, igniter, a valve or the grates.
• Parts are still available for your brand and model.
• You like the grill and it fits the island perfectly.

Replacement usually wins when:

• The firebox is rusted through or the body is badly warped.
• Several major parts have failed at once.
• The brand is gone and parts can't be found.
• You want a feature the old grill can't do, like a sear zone or a bigger cooking area.

If the symptom is the only thing pushing you toward a new grill, check it first. Uneven heat, weak flames and a grill that won't stay lit are often a cleaning or small-part fix. See gas grill not getting hot and hot and cold spots. Our repair-or-replace guide goes deeper on the decision.

How to get an accurate number

1. Write down the brand, model and width of your current grill, and the fuel type.
2. Measure the opening and take photos of the island, gas line and outlet.
3. Pick the grill level you want, and confirm its cutout dimensions.
4. Ask for removal, install, cutout, gas and electrical work listed separately.

We serve Southern California and Arizona. Outside those areas, you can find an insured grill pro near you.